SOLVENT-BASED STAINS
(OLD DAD'S AND PRELUDE PRODUCTS)

2.  Stir the stain. Brush on and spread out as much as possible because any excess will be a waste. Allow this stain to soak in for no more than 2-3 minutes. Wipe off all excess stain with a clean, soft cloth. Allow to dry at least 6-8 hours.

3. Steel wool the entire piece using #0000 steel wool, until smooth. This is to remove any excess dried stain, and any burrs that are raised from the staining. Then vacuum the entire piece with the dusting attachment to remove the steel wool particles. Wipe the entire piece with a tack cloth.

This staining procedure is standard for PRELUDE and OLD DAD's stains. We use these stains because they are solvent-based products which have a controlled penetration, and will not create blotching. These stains, used properly, will ensure even color on all woods.

1.STIR THE FINISH! DO NOT SHAKE! Shaking will create bubbles which are undesirable when applying the finish.

2. When applying finish, use either a brush or wipe on using an old white tube sock on your hand (wear a protective rubber glove under it). Dip your brush or sock (Jen Foam Brush for best results) into the can of finish. DO NOT WIPE OFF EXCESS FINISH ON SIDE OF CAN.   Allow the finish to flow from the brush. DO NOT SKIMP ON FINISH. Use enough - otherwise you will find it harder to apply and your finish may look streaked.

4. Brush or wipe on a coat of finish - the lighter the touch the better. Allow at least 8-12 hours to dry.

5. Lightly sand using a #400 grit wet/dry sand paper, or a #0000 steel wool. Vacuum the piece, then tack cloth the entire piece of furniture.

6. Repeat steps 2-5. Repeat steps 2-4. Repeat step 5, if desired.

This is a desirable finish for most projects. It is easy to apply and dries quickly (about 1 1/2 hours). It can be recoated in 8-12 hours. Three coats of this finish will give your piece of furniture a nice protective coating.

WATER-BASED STAINS (environmentally friendly)
(EF Products by General Finishes)

Application of EF Stains

Application of EF Top Coats

APPLICATION OF STAINS: Remove hardware from furniture. Test the color on the underside of the project.

1. Stir the stain well. Apply with a foam brush, a cloth, or for a large surface, a latex paint applicator. Apply a wet, liberal coat to insure easy workability. (If too little stain is used, the surface can dry too quickly, causing an uneven appearance.) Stain a complete section (top, side, drawer, door, etc.) and wipe off the excess evenly with the grain using a clean cloth. Check for missed spots and lap marks before moving to the next section. You have about 10-30 minutes to correct a problem area. Drying time is normally 2-4 hours under ideal conditions.

2. Buffing EF stains prior to applying Top Coat is optional. If you do, use only a fine 3M abrasive pad. CAUTION: heavy buffing may remove stain! NOTE: do not use steel wool!

3. Clean up brushes with soap and water. Keep from freezing. (Coverage is 150 sq.ft. per quart for all products.)

1. Stir container well. DO NOT SHAKE! Make sure surface is clean and free of all grease and dirt. Apply with a foam brush, a latex paint pad applicator, or by spraying. Apply liberally by using smooth even strokes in the direction of the grain. Use enough material to provide a wet film. DO NOT over brush! EF Top Coat will level out by itself. Because of the high quality of EF Top Coats, they have "burn in" characteristics and may slightly lift some of the color. We recommend a minimum of 3 coats. Additional coats may be applied to increase durability and depth. Drying time is normally 2-4 hours.

BUFFING OF TOP COATS: After the top coat has dried, sand with #320 or finer grit sandpaper or buff with a fine 3M abrasive pad. Remove dust with a clean cloth. It is important to buff in between each coat for the smoothest possible finish. DO NOT buff final coat.
NOTE: Do not use steel wool or a tack cloth!

It is important to let the final Top Coat cure for a period of 14 days to reach optimum hardness. You may use your project sooner, just treat it with special care during the curing period.

Tips on Finishing Wood Furniture

Each piece of solid wood furniture is an original, the result of nature's handiwork. Every item has its own grain pattern and color, according to the character of the wood. Light and dark areas blend during the finishing process to produce the uniquely attractive look of real wood furniture.

While you can paint, varnish or finish your furniture in other ways, one of the most commonly used finishing processes is staining and top coating. To help you get the best results, here are tips to help you finish your furniture using this method.

Preparing the surface

Most unfinished pieces need additional fine sanding before finishing to avoid surface fuzz or roughness that will show when the stain is applied.

• Always sand in the direction of the grain.

• Oak should be sanded to medium smoothness with medium-coarse 120-grit sandpaper. Other woods should be sanded with medium sandpaper, generally no finer than 150-grit.

• If wood fill has been used to cover nicks or holes, be sure the residue has been sanded well. If not, the area around the fill will not stain properly and may have a blotchy look.

Staining

Stains contain colored pigments that often settle to the bottom of the can and must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take as much as five minutes to thoroughly dissolve the "mud" so that the color remains consistent as the contents are used up.

To apply stain, you can use almost any type of rag (cotton works best) cut approximately 10 inches square (larger ones sometimes get in the way). Foam brushes also work well. Stain can be applied in any direction, usually cross-grain first.

• Read and follow the directions on each container. The manufacturer knows its products and will tell you how to get the best results.

• Do a test "doodle" on the piece first on the back, bottom or other inconspicuous area check the stain color before proceeding. Once the stain on the test area has dried, apply a coat of the clear finish on it. If the stain looks evenly coated and you like the look, one coat staining is adequate. If the stain is too light or uneven, a second coat of stain may be needed before the top coat is applied.

• Pine, aspen and some other woods stain more evenly if a sealer coat is applied before the stain. Check with your dealer to see if this is right for your application.

• Stain one surface at a time, and do the corners and uneven areas first. Do these areas when the applicator has the most stain on it so you can get full penetration. You can then spread the rest on the flat areas.

• As you stain each area, wipe with the grain to remove excess stain, then move to another area. As you finish, go back over the entire piece with a clean rag to pick up all excess stain and wipe the surface dry.

The Top Coat and Sanding

Most clear top coats are designed to be wiped on. You can use a brush, but wiping helps prevent runs. Apply at least one coat of clear finish to all surfaces, both seen and unseen, to prevent cracking as the piece continues to dry out over the years.

• Do one small area at a time, applying the top coat with the grain. In corners, you may need to pat the coating on or apply with a circular motion to get full coverage. Just be sure to wipe off any excess immediately with the grain.

• Allow coating to dry. The surface will feel gummy if not fully dry, and drying time will vary depending on weather conditions.

• Sand the dried coating with very fine #400 or #600 wet/dry sandpaper to remove any fuzz. Wipe sanded piece with a tack cloth or a rag dampened in mineral spirits to remove debris. (Be sure to dispose of the rag properly.)

• Feel the piece with your hands and sand any areas that still seem fuzzy. Fuzz must be removed before applying additional coats. It will not go away until you take care of it.

You are looking for a consistent sheen. If after two coats you have it, and if water protection is not a major concern, the job is done. If you have uneven sheen, apply additional coats, sanding lightly and wiping with a tack cloth between each application.

If water resistance is a goal, we recommend four coats of finish on the surface area of concern, usually the top.

Remember to always sand and remove debris with a tack cloth between coats.

Congratulations! You have a beautifully finished piece of furniture you will be proud of for years to come.

Finishing tips from UFA (Unfinished Furniture Association)

Barewood Furnishings